Ivan Zamorano

Acupunture Treatment

Creative Needle Smocked Bishop Sewing Pattern Tutorial


Hey everyone, this tutorial explains how I
made the creative needle bishop pattern with the shoulder closure. I’ve made this pattern
three times now – two before Audrey was born and one recently, around 3 months. It’s one of my favorite bishop patterns
– I think the side closure is so neat. I used the daygown size of the pattern for all
three bishops. It is quite long and has a deep, five inch hem allowance. Keep that in
mind if you want a shorter style – just shorten the pattern when you’re cutting
it. So to get started, cut your pattern pieces
so you’ll have some bias strips, two sleeves, one front piece cut on the fold, and one back
piece cut on the fold. And I put a little notch in the back sleeve so I know where the
placket is supposed to stop. To do the sleeves, you have a few options
on how to finish that bottom raw edge. You can attach lace using a zigzag stitch and
I’ve got a more detailed video of that process that I will link down below if anyone needs
it. Another option is using a strip of bias band
to enclose the edges – similar process to how I’ll show the neckline later on in the
video. For this third bishop that I made using this pattern, I went ahead and did a cap sleeve. Making the pattern is easy. You just draw
how long the sleeve should be, go up 1.5” on either sides and 2” in the middle and
connect these points with a gradual curve. Easy peacey. If you want to do this cap sleeve method,
you’ll need to cut out four pieces total. If not, just fast forward to the next step.
I have the time blocks laid out in the description box. So first you’ll want to gather the bottom
of your sleeves using two rows of gather stitches. Then I decided to stitch from one side around
that gradual curved top to the other side. I wanted the sides of the cap sleeve to be
left out from the sleeve seam. If you wanted those sides in that sleeve seam – like on
this dress, then just sew the gradual curved top – of course either way, sew them with
right sides together. Then you’ll turn the cap right sides out.
After clipping the gradual curve and snipping the corners so they’ll make a neat point.
I like to gently slide my scissors into the corner to help define the point. I really
should get one of those pointer tools, just hasn’t happened. You can go back and understitch the top of
the cap if you’d like. It does make for a neater look, but I was lazy with this purple
bishop… hahaa whatevs. So then you’ll adjust the gathers on the
sleeve until they match the cap length. You’ll sew the cap to the sleeve – the right side
of the cap will be touching the wrong side of the sleeve. I’ll say that one more time
– the right side of the cap is going to touch the wrong side of the sleeve. The cap
is going to turn up to the right side of the sleeve. So I stitched this in place, trimmed the raw
edges down to about ¼” of an inch and then ran a zigzag over them to enclose those raw
edges. And here you can see what I mean – that cap folds up and now both the right side of
the cap is facing up along with the right side of the sleeve. Okay, since I did the cap sleeve, I wanted
the sleeve to be above Audrey’s elbow, so I had to trim 1.5” off the sleeves (and
the front and back pieces so the neckline will still line up). Then start attaching the sleeves to the dress
using French seams. I have a video on French seams that I’ll link below. The key here
is to trim the fabric really close to the seam so the French seam will be tiny and will
go through the pleater without any issues. This also means that you won’t have a big
bulky seams staring back at you… haunting you… in your sleep. muahahaa. And to
keep things easy for my mind, I attach both sleeves to the front of the bishop first.
Now where you sew the back of the dress is going to determine which shoulder the dress
closes on. For example, if you sew it on the right sleeve, then the dress will over the
left shoulder. And vis versa…. if you sew it on the left sleeve, then the dress closure
will be over the right shoulder. So now that I’ve got the dress together,
I’ve got the back, right sleeve, front, and then left sleeve. So this is closing over
the left shoulder. I really hope this is all making sense. At the end of the day, it really
doesn’t matter too much. Your little one will look cute regardless of which shoulder
the dress closes over. So now that we’ve settled that, haha, roll
your dress up on a dowel. This makes things so much easier when running them through the
pleater. You don’t need to get the fabric super tight, your main goal is just to keep
the neckline in line with itself. When I get to a sleeve, I fold it neatly and keep pleating. I threaded eight half-spaced pleating needles.
This means I’ll only smock six rows since the top row and bottom row are used for holding
rows.… but remember I took off 1.5” from this dress. On the other two bishops that I made, I did
7 half spaces for the white dress (and that includes two holding rows) and I did 14 half
spaced rows (again, that includes two holding rows) for the pink dress. I do have a video on how to pleat and smock
if you’d like more detail. I’ll leave the link in the description box.
So now we move onto blocking this dress. And even though there’s a side closure,
I’m still going to use this blocking board. I’ll link it below if you would like to
get one. They are on the expensive side, but they are so useful. Anywho, the board isn’t setup for a bishop
that closes at the shoulder. But really, the important things are that you follow the curve
of the neckline so you don’t have the turtle neck effect to your dress, pull the threads
from the closure sides, and distribute the gathers evenly. Yes, the seams are marked on this board, but
really that’s a general statement, kinda guess work if you will. The really important
thing is that you follow the neckline so you have a pretty curve. So I’ll tie one side into groups of two
to three threads and trim up those ends. Then I’ll pull on the other end of the threads
before I begin blocking and shaping the dress. That way I make sure that I have all the slack
out. So I pin the dress, adjust the gathers, and pull the threads until the neckline lays
flat and is mimicking that curve on the shaping board. From there, you can tie the other side of
threads in groups of two or three. Some people like to steam the bishop and let it stay on
the shaping board until the bishop dries. I haven’t found a difference doing that,
so I skip that step. But just fyi if you want to do that. So then you’ll have a pretty, curved neckline.
Join the dress together at the other shoulder seam using a French seam. You’ll start this
seam at the clip mark. And now we’re onto finishing that shoulder
closure. With the first two bishops, I used the continuous placket method. And if you
want to do that, you’ll take a piece of bias strip about 2 inches wide and sew it
onto the opening. You’ll have to angle off at the bottom and
stitch carefully, but you shouldn’t catch any fabric. Then you’ll trim everything
up and fold the bias strip over twice and sew that in place. Instead, what I did for this purple bishop
was just zigzag each side. Here’s the thing, at least for me, the amount of effort and
quality depends on the garment – so the two bishops I did before this were more sentimental
and out of nicer fabric – you know the sheer, dainty stuff. Whereas this is a nice twill,
very soft, but not delicate. It’s a casual piece, so I don’t mind getting away with
finishes like this. It’s sewing, you do you. Regardless, you’ll see that the sleeve side
turns under and comes on top of the dress. And then I lengthen my stitch a little bit,
and stitch just a smigen below the first pleating row. Then you can take your 2 inch wide bias strip
and fold that in half lengthwise. Match the raw edges of the folded bias strip to the
raw edge of the neckline. Using the previous stitches as a guide, stitch
the bias strip to the neckline. Make sure to leave about ½” on each side so you can
turn this under when you hand sew the bias strip in place later on. Then you’ll trim up the seam just enough
until the bias strip reaches the stitches on the other side of the dress. I like to
use these machine stitches to secure my hand stitches with later on. If you’ve seen my
videos before, you know that I like to save all my hand sewing until I’m done with my
machine sewing. Oh, and I recently did a video on how to get a pretty neckline, actually
using this garment, so go check that out if you’d like more details. I’ll link it
below. So then you can join the side seams using
French seams. This is what my finished sleeve caps look like if you were curious. then I’m
going to put a little tack on the underneath to keep them in place. So now you’ll have completed the dress minus
the hem and handwork. To do the hem, I turn up about ½” of an inch and iron that in
place. I do this all the way around the dress. Then I come back and turn up another 4 ½
” inches since there was a 5 inch hemline allowed. But really, these measurements can
be whatever you think looks good. I’ll turn up another 4 ½ ” a few inches down the
hemline and put another pin. Then I’ll iron between the two pins and
call it good enough for me. I will say that I think it’s important to hand sew the hem
in place. I finish the shoulder closure with snaps since they don’t get in the way of
the smocking. So there you have it, here is the finished
bishop on a three month old Audrey. Like I mentioned, I did the same size for
the pink version and white version. In both of these clips she is around one month old.
And in this clip, she’s in the white version as a brand spanking newborn – still in the
hospital. I hope this was helpful. If you have any questions,
please put them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them. As always,
I appreciate y’all for watching and I hope to catch y’all next time.

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